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Cozinhar com vinho
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Spice Girl



Joined: 04 Jan 2006
Posts: 1033
Location: Lisboa

PostPosted: Sat Feb 17, 2007 6:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rui

Se quiser que lhe mande o texto todo mande-me um email. Não entendo porquê, mas há posts que não consigo pôr...

Todos eles tinham textos tirados da net... sempre os pus sem problemas até ontem...
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Spice Girl



Joined: 04 Jan 2006
Posts: 1033
Location: Lisboa

PostPosted: Sat Feb 17, 2007 6:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Também fizeram uma outra comparação com vinhos brancos e o resultado foi:

When a recipe calls for "dry white wine," it's tempting to grab whatever open bottle is in the fridge, regardless of grape varietal. Are we doing our dishes a disservice? Sure, Chardonnay and Pinot Grigio may taste different straight from the glass, but how much do those distinctive flavor profiles really come through once the wines get cooked down with other ingredients?

To find out, we tried four different varietals and a supermarket "cooking wine" in five recipes: braised fennel, risotto, a basic pan sauce, a beurre blanc, and chicken chasseur. In our tests, only Sauvignon Blanc consistently boiled down to a "clean" yet sufficiently acidic flavor-one that played nicely with the rest of the ingredients. Differences between the wines were most dramatic in gently flavored dishes, such as the risotto and beurre blanc. In contrast, all five wines produced similar (and fine) results when used in chicken chasseur, no doubt because of all the other strong flavors in this dish.

But what's a cook without leftover Sauvignon Blanc to do? Is there a more convenient option than opening a fresh bottle? To find out, we ran the same cooking tests with sherry and vermouth, wines fortified with alcohol to increase their shelf life. Sherry was too distinct and didn't fare well in these tests, but vermouth was surprisingly good. In fact, its clean, bright flavor bested all but one of the drinking wines. And at $5 a bottle (for Gallo, our top-rated brand of vermouth), you can't argue with the price.
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mlpaiva



Joined: 30 Oct 2002
Posts: 2695
Location: Espinho

PostPosted: Sun Feb 18, 2007 9:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hoje, já não sou tão radical como quando escrevi a "Regra nº 2: Na confecção, deve ser utilizado o mesmo vinho que será servido à mesa". Penso, aliás, que até será interessante jogar com outros aromas e sabores... Rolling Eyes
Mas acho que a qualidade do vinho deve concordar com a dos restantes ingredientes, porque nem tudo se esfuma.

E, já agora, o que pensam dos vinhos aromatizados para culinária, como estes? Pessoalmente, acho-os uma heresia.
(Mas, no entanto, agradam-me condimentos pré-misturados para peixe, carne, etc. e as latas de azeites em spray como os [url=http://soloalimentacion.solostocks.com/lotes/comprar/aceite_de_oliva_virgen_en_spray_(3x_aerosoles)/oferta_1342346.html]desta marca[/url], com diversos aromas... Rolling Eyes)

Ainda ontem no Show Cooking da Essência Gourmet, o Luís Baena utilizou um LBV para a confecção de um gelado.
Será que no banho maria prévio a que foi sujeito, terá perdido grande parte das suas qualidades? Será que o azoto terá destruído mais algumas? Será que o nosso paladar notaria a diferença? E por que será que não lhe perguntei*?

(*) Porque o LBV que ele usou era um bom LBV de 1999, que achei bem adequado ao fim em vista... Razz
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Rui P



Joined: 11 Sep 2005
Posts: 358

PostPosted: Sun Feb 18, 2007 5:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Spice,

obrigado pelos textos. Pelos vistos as conclusoes sao mais elaboradas do que eu pensava. Disseram-me que esse artigo teria saido na edicao de Nov/Dez 2006 da revista. Confirma-se? Pelos vistos, a Cooks Illustrated tem agora a opcao de se subscrever o site gratuitamente por 14 dias, hei-de faze-lo quando estiver menos ocupado. Vou-lhe enviar entao um email...

mlpaiva,

nos EUA, o que eles chamam de "cooking wine" e' normalmente um vinho aromatizado e com outros aditivos. O que a Spice transcreveu acima indica que esse foi o unico tipo de vinho que eles excluiram da experiencia, o que e' talvez indicativo do que a revista pensa desse tipo de produto! (Estes "vinhos", apesar de conterem alcool, podem ser comprados nos supermercados sem se exibir identificacao para comprovar que se esta acima da idade legal para adquirir alcool, por isso sao populares entre os teenagers americanos! Vomit )
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Spice Girl



Joined: 04 Jan 2006
Posts: 1033
Location: Lisboa

PostPosted: Sun Feb 18, 2007 6:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rui

Pois esses 14 dias free trial são um problema... Laughing Laughing Laughing

Durante 1 ano assinei uma revista americana (Fine Cooking), mas quanto acabou resolvi mudar. Pus várias hipóteses e depois de um 14 dias free trial da Cook's Illustrated, foi esta que ficou. Sem papel, com acesso a todas as anteriores desde 92... ainda tenho acesso há pouco tempo, mas estou a gostar da experiência. Não me tinha lembrado de ir lá procurar, mas quando falou nisso...

Quanto ao artigo dos vinho tintos saiu em Novembro, mas de 2001. O dos vinhos brancos em Novembro de 2005. O que saiu em Novembro de 2006 foi um em que comparavam vários vinhos BIB com um vinho de garrafa.

Aqui fica:

Quote:
The Ultimate Cooking Wine

Granted, a cardboard box may not look as classy as a slender green bottle, but we wondered if boxed wine could compete with bottled wine when used in cooking. First employed in Australia and Europe and now widely available in the United States, spigot-released boxed wine is both inexpensive and convenient, and it has a long shelf life, which makes it appealing to the cook who may need only the occasional cup.

To find out if boxed wine belongs in the kitchen, we tasted an array of boxed varietals ranging in price from $12.99 to $19.99 for three- or five-liter boxes, including Shiraz, Merlot, and Burgundy. As a control, we included a $10 bottle of the Cìtes du Rhìne we often use in the test kitchen for cooking. Sampled fresh out of the box, some of the wines did not impress, tasting sweet, simple, and sangria-like. But others were quite good, and tasters actually preferred them to the bottled wine. For the next test, we used each of the wines in our Modern Coq au Vin (page 19) and a red wine pan sauce. To our surprise, all of the sauces-even those made with the wines we didn't like straight from the box-were fine.

After the bottles and boxes had been open for two weeks, we tasted them in pan sauce again. As expected, the recorked bottle of Cìtes du Rhìne had skunked, depreciating to a flat, alcohol-flavored sourness, but the boxed wines were still going strong. Even at a full seven weeks, the unrefrigerated boxed wines were fine for cooking.

How do boxed wines stay fresh for so long? An airtight, bladder-like plastic sac collapses as wine is removed (the box is there only for stackability and portability), making the wine less susceptible to oxidation. Price is another plus: Those we tested cost the equivalent of $2 to $5 a bottle.


De qualquer forma a conclusão é um pouco diferente da que lhe tinham dito.
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